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Daily Column

Come join the editor Jennifer Barnick as she searches for the Champagne Life....

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Sparkling Wine

Interview with Wayne Donaldson, Domaine Chandon's wine maker by Paul Donaldson

Feature Four Essential Glasses Every Home Should Have by Felisha Foster

Sparkling Wine Review Mark Kernaghan compares champagnes with their new world counterparts

Arts & Sciences The Sensual Truth Behind Bubbles by Dr. Timothy Smith


First Person

HelloGoodbye Elizabeth Olejnyik says hello and Shawn Fallo says goodbye.

Passion ForumJ. Blake Gordon writes about musician John Frusciante

Under the Goldlight—True Tales of Drinking Champagne A good winter tickler by regular contributor Suzie Sims-Fletcher


Art & Literature

The Marcia Reed Virtual Gallery Artist Gilles Mascarell

Drinker's Poetry David Sirois & Robert Slattery

Fiction Snow Angel by Dave Brown


Other Goodies

Founder's Page Greeting from Dr. Timothy Smith

Letters to the Editor click for full list

Photo Gallery Click for Pics

Four Essential Glasses Every Home Should Have

by Felisha Foster

                             

          Some say I’m a wine snob but I say I’m simply passionate.

            This title of wine snob has been exacerbated by the fact that while most of my friends were happy swigging cheap beer in their twenties I was discovering French Burgundies.   The funny thing is that I don’t really know how it all got started, this unbelievable passion I have for wine.   My father’s intermediate interest in wine perhaps served as my springboard.   My passion for wine grew from voracious reading, to bartending, to owning a bar, to becoming a wine buyer, and now working for a wholesale company with a boutique driven portfolio.   This is quite a switch for someone who began as a Collegiate Women’s Basketball Coach.

            However, back to being a wine snob……that history is a little more complicated, but I believe it has more to do with love and passion than with any need or desire for superiority.   Part of being a wine snob- I prefer the phrase ‘passionate wine enthusiast’- is not just about picking the right wine to drink but also knowing the correct way to handle wine.   Just recently, I was at a party where a woman actually kept her wine in the kitchen- the kitchen!   I saw a bottle of Perrier Jouet, Fleur de Champagne, 1995 just sitting there more than likely already spoiled.   Heat can actually “cook the wine” and any temperature excursions cause pressure changes in the bottle, which can either shrink the cork letting air in or push the cork out. Another big handling issue (which is what this whole mess is about) is the proper stemware to use.   No, Champagne can not be served in just anything, a flute is mandatory (but we will get to that later).   Shame on all who do not have Bourgogne (Burgundy) glasses and please, please do not even consider pewter for anything beyond a letter opener.

            I take the title of wine snob with good humor but I realize wine can be very intimidating and often this intimidation can lead to a general discomfort around wine and all its proper protocols and accoutrements.     However, I believe wine should be consumed with a basic knowledge of its particulars if for no other reason than the mere fact that all wine tastes better in its proper glass.

            Before I get down to specific glasses, I want to take a moment to give you some general qualities that all wine glasses should have regardless of their type.   First, you do not want the temperature of the wine to be affected, so thin glasses are preferable over thick, heavy ones.   Bitterness and acidity tend to be magnified in a thick-rimmed glass. Second, glasses should be plain, colorless, and uncut to maximize the color and clarity of wine.   Painted, etched, and tinted glass affects the appearance of the wine.   Lastly, crystal has a rougher surface compared to regular glass, which aids in the release of aromas as you drink the wine.

            Proper glassware is vital to the wine’s integrity. It displays the color, helps bring out the aroma and bouquet and adds immensely to the overall satisfaction of wine.   With those essentials in place, I’ll outline the various types of stemware you should have to enhance your enjoyment of wine.

            If you put me on a deserted island and I could have only one beverage, Champagne, particularly Rose, would be my choice.   Champagne is so refreshing and alluring.   Of all wines, this one most definitely needs to be coddled like a baby.   When it comes to Champagne or sparkling wine there are two types of glasses:   the goblet (bowl) and the flute.   Both have their fans but only one should ever be used.   Tall, tapered flutes are best for Champagne.   They are designed to keep the bubbles actively extending towards the surface, leading to a concentration of flavors.   By contrast, the goblet’s open space exposes the wine to too much air causing the discharge of gas leading to the flattening of the wine.   Furthermore, the flute helps retain the effervescence and chill.   The Champagne goblet is commonly believed to be seated in the French fashion of the 1700’s to the present but the true origin of the goblet is still the subject of debate.   The goblet is a beautiful glass for admiring but that should be its sole purpose.  

 

 

            Now on to Red Burgundy, also known as Pinot Noir.   In addition, one of my true favorites, Pinot Noir should always be served in a Burgundy glass.   The Burgundy glass is specifically designed to complement the unique properties of Pinot Noir.   Red Burgundy (Pinot Noir) is a very subtle and delicate wine that needs a lot of surface area to sufficiently release its aromas.  This is why Burgundy glasses are the largest in the stemware collection.   A good Burgundy glass can range in size from 16 oz. to 7” high all the way up to 25 oz. and 8 ¼” high.   To me there is nothing more aromatic than Pinot Noir.   It completely and utterly seduces the senses…there’s nothing like it.   It’s simply perfection in the glass!   

 

 

 

 

            Bordeaux is the 18-Wheeler on the highway of wines.   Yet, at their best, these big, gusty wines retain their own sense of grace and elegance.   A wine at this level deserves respect.   Do so by giving it its own glass.   The Bordeaux glass, which can be used for other varietals, like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, is quite large to allow for the full development of the bouquet.   However, given the fact that aromatically Bordeaux is much more powerful than a Red Burgundy and not nearly as subtle and delicate a smaller glass is used.   Bordeaux does not require the same amount of surface area to release it’s aromas that a Red Burgundy does.   A good size Bordeaux glass ranges in size from 18 oz. up to 30 oz. and 8 ½” to 9 ¾” high.

 

 

 

            If you are just starting with the basics, a quality all-purpose set of glasses should be your first investment.   For white wines and all other red varietals, these work perfectly.   A good size all-purpose glass should be 8 to 10 oz. in size.   They should taper inward at the top, which helps to focus the wine’s aromas inward towards the nose.   These glasses work well for older reds, which have aromas that are more complex with subtle nuances, which can be lost if exposed to too much air.  

            Wine is such a sumptuous and wonderful experience and if one invests a little in their stemware I cannot stress enough how much more rewarding quality wine can be.   Even the best of wines can fall apart in the improper glass.

            While the importance of the wineglass and its proper marriage to its particular wine is vital, we are all haunted by the practical considerations of costs.   Quality does not necessarily mean expensive. One can pick up a decent set at very affordable prices these days. Below are a couple of specialty manufacturers and a few viable options I have found at Crate and Barrel and Pottery Barn.  

            Riedel stemware made in Austria is considered the finest wine stemware available.   Their glasses start around $7.00 a stem for machine-made upwards to $90.00 for the mouth-blown, hand-made, Sommeliers series.   For our purpose, I will list some of the machine-made, dishwasher safe options.   The “Ouverture” series is a great beginner glass found at reasonable prices.   They usually come in sets of four and run around $10 a stem.   The Champagne flute, Bordeaux (Magnum), and All-Purpose (Red Wine) glasses are all found in this series.   The “Vinum” series is a step up in quality and their cost range in price from $16 a stem to around $23.00.   These can be found at specialty wine shops or at their website Riedel.   Another specialty manufacture is the Dutch company, Spiegelau.   They come in sets of six and can be purchased at Pottery Barn for around $54.00 or found at Spiegelau.   Also, found at Pottery Barn is the “Signature Goblet” series in sets of six for $32.00-$48.00 and  the “Signature Stemware” series runs $42.00-$54.00 for a set of six.   Crate and Barrel has more than enough stemware to keep you busy for a while.   I have found the “Vineyard”, “Nora”, and “Adrienne” series to do the trick.   They are inexpensive running from $6.95 to $10.95 a stem.   If you have to pick one set of glasses to splurge on, I suggest the Champagne or Red Burgundy glass, if either is your preference in wines.  

            As I worked on this piece with my editor, Jennifer Barnick, I began to see just how important the use of proper stemware can be and just how little consideration most people give it.   It may seem like “no big deal” but trying to taste a beautiful wine struggling and suffering in an ill-advised glass is beyond irritating, it is an absolute affront to the senses.   Good wine can be such a remarkable experience and one that can bring a whole universe of sensory pleasure.   Fine wine is crafted with much love and care and it should be consumed accordingly.   I have been accused (I must admit) of snobbery, over-zealousness, and yes, poked fun of regarding my passionate feelings surrounding wine.   Ultimately, I know I'm the winner because oenophiles do it better.   There!

     The author, Felisha Foster, enjoying a nice proper glass of wine.

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